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“Forge”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American Tribeca Moderate Good

Like many restaurants to open these days—Back Forty and Hundred Acres, to name just two—the conceit at the newly opened Forge is an exploration of simpler times and simpler foods, of locally sourced seasonal ingredients cooked earnestly and served in rustic rooms built from raw, organic materials like wood and brick, with walls adorned with vintage cookware and farm tools—a cast iron pan, a hammered copper pot, perhaps a random garden hoe. These restaurants represent a retreat from modernity, and a slower, softer approach to dining that at its best works quite well, reminding us how the most basic ingredients can be transporting.

At Forge, a restaurant that carries this trend to the cobblestone streets of Tribeca, you’ll find the design speaks to that familiar farmhouse-styled vibe, but somehow here it feels more striking rather than monotonous. The rooms are built from raw wood and rough exposed brick, with low candlelight flickering on rugged wooden tables topped with tiny bud vases filled with a few blue cornflowers. Lining the walls are shelves of original cookery books and lots of old world cook’s tools in hammered brass and wrought iron. I felt like I was on the prairie and I half expected to hear a horse’s whinny coming from out back.

Indeed, on the wide wooden deck outside, where diners drink fresh juice cocktails in squat glasses, a forged steel iron railing looks like the perfect spot to tie your horse while having dinner. While I don’t have a horse anymore (I did as a teenager, and was the only Jewish kid from Queens up in the barns of North Salem, lemme tell ya, I stuck out like an eggplant in a pumpkin patch), I’d have loved to have ridden him down to dinner, hearing his big hooves clopping along on the cobblestone. Hey, gas is expensive, why are we not riding horses to work and to dinner? I’d feel a lot safer than on a bike. Hmm. I’ll have to look into that. Note to self to call 311. In any case, Forge’s design is imbued with many rough and tumble organic elements of the prairie that plays up nicely with chef Marc Forgione’s menu.

Forge, as he’s known to his pals, is a longtime disciple of Laurent Tourondel, and is also the son of Larry Forgione, one of the fathers of American cooking. He’s got an impressive pedigree, and he ... [more, click below]

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Other restaurants in Tribeca :
+ Lunchbox Food Company--Closed   + 66: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Ola-- Closed   + Bouley   + Dominic   + Landmarc   + Pace-- Closed   + EN Japanese Brasserie   + Centrico   + Cercle Rouge   + The Harrison   + Turks & Frogs Tribeca   + Devin Tavern   + Dani-- Closed Now   + Bacaro/Smith & Mills   + The Harrison   + Matsugen, By Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Forge   + Macao Trading Company   + Harbour   + Review text tbd...   + Mehtaphor   + Brushstroke   + Jung Sik   


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