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“Joseph Leonard”

  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American West Village Moderate Good

Overseeing his realm, Stulman clearly enjoys his barman duties, and is eager to discuss the menu and shake hands with everyone who walks in.  Unlike many other bars in the neighborhood, as soon as you walk in a bartender reaches over to offer the menu.  Though filled throughout the night, the place took care to ensure people had a drink in their hand, and were able to sit when a seat became available – this is not the kind of place that makes you fend for yourself.Some plates didn’t work as well as I’d have liked.

A salt cod brandade ($8) – usually one of my favorite dishes - was served in a small glass jar straight from the refrigerator.  The coldness numbed much of the flavor, and the severely whipped texture omitted any shards of cod. Also, the kitchen has a clear predilection for sweetness, and this sometimes overpowered the savory dishes, like a sautéed striped bass served on top of toasted barley, mustard greens, poached apples, brown butter and almonds ($24). The fish was nicely cooked, but the dish had an overly sweet, muddled taste that didn’t let the separate flavors come through.A nearly wonderful dish of turkey poitrine ($23) had a similar problem.  Very juicy turkey breast had a crisp and delectable outer crust, but it swam in a pool of pomegranate jus that was too sweet for me. On the plus side, it sat on a scrumptious mix of roasted Brussels sprouts, oyster mushrooms and mashed parsnips (so light it seemed like potato puree).  It’s a great menu option to take you off the roast chicken path, but it missed the mark a bit.

I would go back just for the hashbrowns ($6), though.  Wow.  A big pancake of crisp, greaseless, golden shredded browns.  (Note to breakfasters:  these appear on the current brunch list and will show up again when the restaurant starts serving breakfast.)
The desserts seem carefully selected to please:  I tried a light, moist, three-layer carrot cake packed with golden raisins and iced with a citrusy cream cheese frosting . The cake was delicious, but seemed to have just stepped out of the fridge. It could have used some time on the counter to let the frosting soften up.

The feeling is welcoming here. As soon as you walk in, it’s like you are in someone’s home, and they have been waiting for you to arrive so they can take good care of you. There are great cooking smells coming from the ... [more, click below]

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Other restaurants in West Village :
+ Jefferson-- Closed   + La Palapa Rockola   + Sumile   + Babbo   + Tasca   + AOC Bedford   + Home   + The Spotted Pig   + Barbuto   + Numero 26   + Mas   + August   + Alta   + Cru   + Blue Mill Tavern-- Closed   + Employees Only   + Lassi   + Metropol--Closed   + Turks and Frogs   + Bellavitae   + Yumcha-- CLOSED   + Gusto: SEE EARLIER REVIEW; THIS CHEF HAS LEFT GUSTO   + Perry Street   + Home   + Ditch Plains   + The Little Owl   + Cafe Condesa   + Cafe Cluny   + Gusto   + The Waverly Inn   + Morandi   + P*ONG   + Perilla   + Soto   + Market Table   + Centro Vinoteca   + Barfry   + Dell'Anima   + Bar Blanc   + Smith's   + Commerce   + Elettaria   + Bar Q   + Cabrito   + 10 Downing   + Minetta Tavern   + Braeburn   + Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Joseph Leonard   + Bar Henry, by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Kin Shop   + Monument Lane   + Wong   + Bin on Bleecker, by Dara Pollak   + Ristorante Rafele   + Cole's Greenwich Village by Guest Reviewer Claire Jaffe   

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