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“La Vara”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Spanish	Brooklyn	Moderate	Great

), like the Ajo Blanco, is a showstopper that should also be added to “Best of 2012.” It’s slow-roasted so it’s practically caramelized within its cumin crust and it comes with a sticky date jam, brightened up with lemon that you should feel free to dab generously on top of the lamb (and your date for that matter, too.) For dessert, have the almond torta, a light and airy cake dusted in powdered sugar that wraps the meal up with just the right wink of sweetness.

To be honest, I’m not sure that any of this food is truly Sephardic, but it does channel the flavors of that warmly spiced cuisine into a modern Spanish framework that really works quite well. Whatever you want to call it, I loved it. I thought the service was quite nice, and I enjoyed the moderately priced wine list as much as Craig enjoyed his goblets of Sangria, which he said tasted exactly like Spain and took him back to his travels there after college. He took a few sips and I saw him go somewhere else in his mind. I thought about that, how food can take you to another part of your life. It is a vehicle in some ways. Sometimes, it’s all we have left.

La Vara is located at 268 Clinton Street, (between Congress St & Veranda Pl), (718) 422-0065.

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Posted: June 3, 2012

Other restaurants in Brooklyn :
+ Chickenbone Cafe-- Closed   + Pier 116-- Closed   + Chestnut   + Lunch at Peter Luger's   + 360   + Palo Santo   + The Good Fork   + Porchetta-- Closed Now   + Bocca Lupo   + Flatbush Farm   + DuMont Burger   + Dressler   + Farm on Adderley   + The Grocery   + Saul   + Black Mountain Wine House   + The General Greene   + Char No. 4   + James   + Chestnut   + No. 7   + Vinegar Hill House   + Motorino   + Buttermilk Channel   + Buttermilk Channel   + Vutera   + Watty & Meg    + Prime Meats   + Aqualis Grill   + Jack the Horse Tavern   + Roman's   + Fatty 'Cue   + Thistle Hill Tavern   + Broken English   + Trix, by Dara Pollak   + An Ode to New Orleans in Williamsburg: Maison Premiere, By Dara Pollak   + Brooklyn Wok Shop by Dara Pollak   + Arthur on Smith   + La Vara   + Gran Electrica   + Pok Pok Ny   + Ganso    + Reynard   

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